In the Song Dynasty, the use of Huamei ink became more widespread, and women rarely used Shidai anymore

Published on: 2023-11-09 13:50
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Beauty is human nature. As early as primitive times, humans began to decorate themselves with special things to make themselves more beautiful. Archaeologists have discovered beautiful beads made of small stones, shells, or animal teeth on primitive human sites, used for decoration; Traces of beauty and makeup were found on cave paintings. Understanding some things from the past may be beneficial for your life.


It is said that the tradition of thrush originated in the Warring States period. Before there were specific materials for thrush, women burned willow branches and applied them to their eyebrows. The materials used by ancient Han women to raise eyebrows have changed with the development of the times. According to literature records, the earliest material for thrush is Dai, which is a black mineral also known as "stone Dai". Before drawing, Shi Dai must be placed on a stone inkstone and ground into powder, then mixed with water. Many stone inkstones of Moshi Dai have been found in Han tombs, indicating that this type of cosmetic was already in use during the Han Dynasty. In addition to Shidai, there are also Tongdai, Qingquetoudai, and Luozidai. Copper rust is a chemical substance resembling copper rust. Qingque Toudai is a dark gray material of the eyebrow, which was introduced from the Western Regions during the Northern and Southern Dynasties.


Luozidai is a type of eyebrow material used by women during the Sui and Tang dynasties. It was produced in the Persian kingdom and has been processed and manufactured into various prescribed shapes of haircuts. When used, it only needs to be dipped in water without grinding. Because its appearance and production process are similar to ink ingots used in calligraphy and painting, it is also known as "graphite" or "eyebrow ink". In the Song Dynasty, the use of Huamei ink became more widespread, and women rarely used Shidai anymore. The method of making eyebrow ink is also described in the notes of the Song Dynasty. For example, in the "Shilin Guangji", it is said: "One cup of real sesame oil, rub the lamp core tightly, burn the oil cup in water, cover it with a small container, let the smoke condense, and then sweep it down. Three days ago, soak the musk deer in a small amount of oil, pour it into the smoke and mix it evenly. The ink can exceed the paint. One method is to spin cut the sesame oil lamp flower, which is particularly good." This smoky eyebrow material was praised as "eyebrow collection fragrance round" by the end of the Song Dynasty and the beginning of the Yuan Dynasty. After the Yuan Dynasty, all palace women used eyebrow stones from the Zhaitang specialty of Mentougou District in the west of Beijing as their choice of eyebrow stones, and this remained the case until the Ming and Qing Dynasties. In the early 1920s, with the spread of Western culture to the East, there were also a series of changes in Chinese women's cosmetics. Thrush materials, especially rod-shaped eyebrow pencils and chemically modulated black oils.